The Eatconomist

Taksim

2008-02-04T17:45:00.001-05:00

1030 2nd Ave. (btwn 54th & 55th)
New York, NY 10079
(212) 421-3004
www.taksim.us

Turkish food is delish. Lamb, spices, hummus, falafel... what's not to love? Taksim's a wonderful restaurant. A Turkish Delight indeed, Edmund, but this one won't get you in trouble. It's a fairly small restaurant - perfect place to bring 2 or 3 of your friends for a casual, reasonably priced Midtown dinner.

Foodnalysis:

Free Bread - Free. What a glorious word, particularly to eatcheaplyists like yourself. The bread at Taksim is great! Flakey, light, perfect for dipping in...

Tarama (aka Taramosalata) - a salty, smooth Greak spread traditionally made from carp roe, mashed potato or bread crumbs, lemon juice and olive oil. The first time I tried Tarama I thought it was much too salty, however it has proved itself to be quite the acquired taste. A recommended appetizer that compliments the endless bread. Give it a try. Taksim's cacik and stuffed cabbage leaves are also great starters.

Borek - Essentially a Turkish egg roll filled with feta cheese. Tasty, but not the best appetizer for the price.

Lamb Shank - Tender, boneless lamb with eggplant and tomato sauce, served over rice. Quite possibly the best item on the menu (see FN1). This is a good pick -- flavorful and filling.

Adana Kebab Sandwich - If you're deciding between Chicken and Lamb, you clearly did not read the aforementioned footnote. EAT LAMB. You can choose between a platter option served with rice pilaf or, for $3 less, a "sandwich" (read: wrap) option. Well-seasoned meat with Turkish red pepper, onions and tomatoes wrapepd in a large tortilla... mmmm. Here's an tip: fill up on the bread and take half of the wrap to work for lunch. How's that for economical!? I've kindly tested this method for your in advance and can honestly say the wraps passed the decent-leftover test with flying colors.

Footnote 1: It's rather unwise (read: insanely stupid) to go to a Turkish restaurant and not order lamb. Don't do it.

Salary and Wages:

Courteous and attentive staff. Not put-off by constant bread and water requests: definitely a bonus.

Property, Plant and Equipment:

Small but not cramped. Clean, not too loud, a nice atmosphere for a laid back dinner. The type of place to bring your buddy, not your boss.

Statement of Cash Flows:

Reasonable, if not a deal for the area. Almost all the appetizers are $5. Main dishes are $12 (with the exception of the $16 lamb shank), lamb and chicken sandwich/wraps were $9.

The Bottom Line:

Tarama + Lamb = Yum.

Bouchon Bakery

2008-01-24T14:32:00.000-05:00

I apologize for the posting lapse -- there's thing I have called a job that unfortunately takes time away from blogging. I'd quit, but until my "Will Blog For Food!" campaign succeeds, I need the money to fund your literary pleasures. Unless YOU would like to help me fund your literary pleasures...

10 Columbus Circle (59th St. btwn Broadway & W. Central Park)
New York, NY 10019
(212) 823-9366
www.bouchonbakery.com

Let's turn our taste buds to Bouchon Bakery at Columbus Circle. Downstairs from the not-so-wallet-friendly (but-incredibly-amazing-I'm-sure) restaurant Per Se, Bouchon Bakery is also part of famed chef Thomas Keller's restaurant group. Economical friends, this is the closest you will ever get to Tom's illustrious French Laundry, a 62-person restaurant in Napa Valley with $240 prix-fixe menus, $50 corkage fees, and flaming hoops you must jump through to get a reservation. Just consider Bouchon Bakery to be six degrees of restaurant separation from French Laundry, then tell your friends you ate at a Thomas Keller "Restaurant".

The Bouchon in the Time Warner Center consists of a Bakery with simple foods and lovely pastries, and a neighboring Cafe with better food, more selection and, of course, higher prices. This review is based on the Bakery, i.e. the cheapest Thomas Keller food you're ever going to get.

Foodnalysis:

Almond Croissant: A sweet treat. Beautiful exterior abounding in toasted almonds and powdered sugar. Soft inside, could use a bit more raspberry jam... but still a good pick.

Ham and Cheese Baguette: So-so, but definitely not worth $7.95. Served cold, untoasted. The crisp baguette was of good taste but difficult to chew. Ham, swiss and mustard were rather ordinary.

I've also tried other pastries and have yet to be disappointed.

Salary and Wages:

Neutral. They put food on a tray and accept money... pretty hard to ruin that.

Property, Plant and Equipment:

One of the Bouchon Cafe selling points is the beautiful view of Columbus Circle. Fortunately the Bakery has some self-seating tables adjacent to the Cafe, so try and snag a good seat like the following:

Perfect! Way to impress your date. Cross your fingers that they do not see your cheapness (or shall we call it shrewd financial tendencies) behind your classy facade.

Statement of Cash Flows:

Overpriced sandwich, but not too horrible for the area.

The Bottom Line:

A fair sampling of Bouchon bistro fare. Stick to pastries at the Bakery; go to the Cafe for food.

The Dining Room Management Group, Inc.

2007-12-06T12:10:00.001-05:00

102 Mott St (btwn Canal & Hester)
New York, NY 10013
(212) 925-6661

When you hear "Chinese restaurant," what's the first name that comes to mind? Jade Palace? Capital Seafood? Panda Garden? Some other random permutation from the bank of standard Chinese restaurant names? Well, perhaps you need to come dine at the most bizarrely named Chinatown joint: The Dining Room Management Group, Inc.! "Legal entity?" you accountants naively ask. Nope, a RESTAURANT.

Foodnalysis:

Baked Minced Beef over Rice with Cheese - These baked/cheese type dishes are popular at younger, more hip Chinese restaurants. Try not think casserole or Italian when you see "baked" and "cheese" in this dish. Think… Chinese paella. This dish is tasty for those who aren't quite ready to carp belly or other menu delicacies. The creamy sauce went well with the plump rice and peas, and there was just enough cheese to compliment the dish. A bit on the heavy side, but good for the price.

Chinese Sausage over Taro Rice - Served in a traditional stone rice pot. I particularly enjoy these pots as the bottom edges of the rice are browned and crispy, but not everyone likes their rice to crunch. Note for the health-conscious: Chinese sausages are served with about 60% fat. The dish was filling, but there was not enough meat and taro relative to the amount of rice. Not recommended.

Tea - Unlike most Chinese restaurants, The Dining Room Management Group, Inc. (man, that's way too long a name) does not leave tea pots at each table for diners to refill as they please. Rather, they give each patron one giant tea cup that holds about twice the amount a typical cup holds, then have waiters with giant kettles run around for refills. Very inefficient.

Salary and Wages:

Poor service. We had to flag our tea-runner down multiple times to keep our cups full. Also took about three failed attempts to get our check.

Property, Plant and Equipment:

Trendy for a Chinese restaurant. Booths line both sides of the corridor-like restaurant. Bright, colorful lights create a perky ambiance, but the roast ducks hanging in the front window will clear away any doubts you have: indeed, you are in Chinatown.

Let's take this moment to analyze the menu. Notice anything strange about the following?

Don't see it? Have a closer look.

I sincerely hope there are no law clerks being chopped up in the kitchen... I can see the lawsuit now: New York Paralegals vs. The Dining Room Management Group, Inc.

Statement of Cash Flows:

No tax. Always a plus!

The Bottom Line:

Average food, poor service. Much better alternatives down the street.

La Paella

2007-12-05T13:10:00.000-05:00

214 E. 9th St. (btwn 2nd & 3rd Ave.)
New York, NY 10003
(212) 598-4321
www.lapaellanyc.com

La Paella offers two wonderful deals: a $12.99 lunch set (available from noon - 5 pm) and an early bird menu ($16.99/person available from 4 pm - 7 pm). The restaurant was suspiciously empty for a Sunday afternoon however, unlike so many times in the past, this was not a sign to flee. A neat taste of traditional Spanish cuisine tucked away from the deluge of Japanese restaurants down the street.

Foodnalysis:

Gazpacho Andaluz - One of two first course options on the lunch set. This tomato-based Spanish soup is served cold. Great for those humid summer days, a so-so choice for fall. The blended soup had a smooth consistency and the cool cucumber-tomato flavor was refreshing.

Mixed Green Salad - The lunch set's other option for a first course. An above-average salad with tangy dressing. Good for those who want to go light before indulging in the paella carb-fest.

Plato de Paella - Choice of meat or seafood. If you like peas, this dish is pea-riffic. Paella typically tends to be pretty pea-heavy, however La Paella's version was a tad much for me. Not the best paella I've eaten, but a fair choice. Large portions -- save room for ice cream!

Green Tea Ice Cream - Interesting menu option in a Spanish restaurant. Perhaps a failed attempt to blend in with the Japanese neighborhood? Pardon the picture (or lack thereof)… sometimes my stomach prevents the camera from getting its turn first. This ice cream is quite different from the typical asian green tea ice team, had a bit of a bitter kick to it. Not bad, just different.

It is also said that La Paella offers excellent tapas, but alas, you will have to see for yourself as I was too cheap to resist a set meal.

Salary and Wages:

Friendly waiter. Yes, that's singular. There was one waiter for the entire restaurant! Granted it was lunch and it was not that crowded, but let's hope they have more help at night. The waiter was fairly attentive, however, and managed to successfully carry several plates at a time during his treks up and down the stairs to the kitchen.

Property, Plant and Equipment:

Well decorated and cozy. A beautiful ceiling of dried roses added a romantic touch (although it did cross my mind that those could probably gather a disgusting amount of dust).

Statement of Cash Flows:

$12.99 + tax + tip. Not bad for a filling lunch!

The Bottom Line:

Decent Spanish lunch set that won't break your cartera. Cartera = wallet in Spanish (that AP class really paid off).

Rice to Riches

2007-11-20T22:53:00.000-05:00

37 Spring St. (btwn Mott & Mulberry)
New York, NY 10012
(212) 274-0008
www.ricetoriches.com

There are three things I love about the small stretch of Spring between Mott and Mulberry: Pinkberry (please suppress the overwhelming urge you may have to yell "overrated!"), Lombardi's (wonderful pizza) and Rice to Riches. If you've seen the movie Hitch, you might have caught a small scene where Eva Mendas confesses her affection for Will Smith's dork factor over a bowl of rice pudding. It was filmed at Rice to Riches, the one stop shop for all your rice pudding desires.

Foodnalysis:

Rice Pudding - Rice to Riches' delicious treats will quickly disintegrate any childhood perceptions you had that rice pudding is boring. There's no plain vanilla or chocolate here, folks. Get ready for a tastebud rollercoaster with flavors such as Chocolate Chip Flirt, Hazelnut Chocolate Bear Hug, and I'll Take Eggnog for $200 Alex. My personal favorite is Rest in Peach which is unfortunately only available during the summer. The wonderful thing is that you can sample unlimited flavors before settling. Wonderful for noncommittal people… that is, until you have to commit.

Note: some puddings say "tastes great warm". NOT. Eat it cold. It's not rice, it's rice PUDDING.

Salary and Wages:

Employees are about as friendly as you could be if you were standing behind a counter for hours, scooping hundreds of mini spoons full of rice pudding samples.

Property, Plant and Equipment:

Rice to Riches has a clean, modern feel reminiscent of an Ugly Betty office/Apple store. The bright orange and white lights create a welcoming glow. There are a few seats in the back and some larger counter-high tables in the front. Can get crowded on weekend evenings, but despite the steady stream of customers, it's generally not too overwhelming inside.

Witty signs add to the fun atmosphere.

Statement of Cash Flows:

Rice pudding is available in one of four sizes:

I recommend getting two flavors in the Epic size and sharing with 1-2 other friends. It may look small, but rice pudding is quite filling and the containers can hold a deceptive amount.

Budget conscious? Take the containers home, wash them out and ta-dah! Chic Tupperware! You will be the envy of all your friends.

For those not in the NYC area, you can have your rice pudding overnighted -- a measly $55 for a Sumo size (smallest available for shipping). Mind you, this is great stuff… but if you are willing to spend $55 on rice pudding, we should discuss your financial priorities.

The Bottom Line:

Rice pudding will never be the same again.

Clinton Street Baking Company

2007-11-14T17:48:00.001-05:00

4 Clinton Street (btwn E. Houston & Stanton)
New York, NY 10002
(646) 602-6263
www.clintonstreetbaking.com

Hands down, one of the best breakfast joints around. I highly recommend going on a weekday if you have the luxury as it's rumored that weekend waits border unbearable -- apparently there are others who want to make frequenting this excellent restaurant a Saturday morning ritual. I love Clinton Street Baking Co. to the point where I've contemplated taking vacation days to eat here. I'm joking. Well, not really. Onto the food!

Foodnalysis:

Buttermilk Biscuit with House Raspberry Jam - A warm, fluffy biscuit that's large enough to share with a friend… or two, if you plan on loading up on other goodies. Comes with a side of tangy yet sweet homemade jam. Smother it on and the reassuring crunch of real raspberries paired perfectly with the buttery biscuit will whisk you away into a carb-induced fantasyland.

Clinton Street Omelette - Choose two ingredients from a respectable list on the menu. The pictured omelette masks muenster cheese and bacon. Healthy? Please. Tasty? Absolutely! Also comes with a small side of hash browns (more like home fries) and sourdough toast. Save some house raspberry jam from the biscuit to slather on the toast!

Wild Maine Blueberry Pancakes - Absolutely wonderful. Fresh blueberries embedded in piles of thick, soft pancakes. The warm maple butter complements the pancakes better than syrup ever could.

Brioche French Toast - Another delicious choice. French toast fluffed to new extremes, also goes very well with the maple butter. Adorned with sweet bananas, roasted pecans and powdered sugar, this is a must have for french toast lovers.

Salary and Wages:

Nothing particularly memorable about the staff. They serve the amazing food, albeit with some expected delays due to the crowd, but no praises or complaints here.

Property, Plant and Equipment:

Warm, friendly restaurant on a quiet street just south of Houston. Be prepared to wait outside. Tables by the windows are a plus. Restaurant is cozy and bustling -- lovely for good conversation over a delicious meal.

Statement of Cash Flows:

A bit steep for breakfast (pancakes - $10, french toast - $12, omelette - $11), but worth every penny. Portions are generous.

The Bottom Line:

Highly recommended breakfast spot, short wait on weekdays. Blueberry pancakes and french toast make the trip worthwhile.

Pommes Frites

2007-11-14T17:21:00.001-05:00

123 2nd Ave. (btwn 7th St. & St. Mark's)
New York, NY 10003
(212) 674-1234
www.pommesfrites.ws

One of the best things about New York is the oversaturation of restaurants which results in specialized spots like… a restaurant dedicated to french fries and dipping sauces!

Foodnalysis:

French Fries - Wrapped in a paper cone, these fries are served hot and crispy, begging to be double - wait, make that TRIPLE - dipped. Comes in three sizes -- regular, large and double. Regular makes for a nice snack for 2-3 people.

Sauces - The roasted garlic mayo has a rich flavor akin to ranch while the sweet mango chutney mayo delights those craving a bit of sweet. For $0.75 a pop, load 'em up! The friendly staff will let you sample sauces in advance as well.

Salary and Wages:

Bring along a charming gal pal (spoken from experience!) and a gentleman behind the counter who goes by the name of Alex might just whip up his own special concoction and give it to you for free. Now that's good service.

Property, Plant and Equipment:

This hole in the wall (literally) makes for a great stop after a night-stroll down St. Mark's. There are a few benches and tables in the back of the crowded room, but don't plan on finding a seat. The floor is slick, greasy and pretty darn nasty. What did you expect? They don't make fries in water, sweetie.

Statement of Cash Flows:

It's not McDonald's… but it's worth the couple bucks! Bring along a few friends and split the cost. You'll get to try more sauces that way too.

The Bottom Line:

Ketchup? That's so last year.

Congee Village

2007-10-30T12:15:00.001-04:00

100 Allen St (btwn Broome & Delancey)
New York, NY 10002
(212) 941-1818
www.congeevillagerestaurants.com

Sunday lunch: Chinatown, baby! It's become somewhat of a habit. Crowds swarming around carts selling produce at a fraction of Food Emporium's insane prices, Cantonese grandmas yelling at hyper kids in brightly mismatched clothes, wide-eyed tourists towering over nonchalant locals… gotta love it. Congee Village is situated on the outskirts of the madness and welcomes its visitors to a scrumptious escape.

Note: Sorry about the Ray-Ban yellow tint on the pictures. Let's just say the restaurant had an "asian glow" (sans alcohol).

Foodnalysis:

Pan Fried Tofu with Soy Sauce - Excellent pick. High quality tofu perfectly toasted on the outside, leaving the inside silky and moist. The tofu was laid in just the right amount of sauce to absorb a tasteful amount. The scallions were a nice touch as well, added a little crunch to the dish. This was the last dish to arrive due preparation time, but it was well worth it.

Sliced Beef Chow Fun Noodles - Ahh, the Cantonese staple. I've had many, many versions of this dish over the years. Congee Village's version ranks slightly above average in my general ledger. (General ledger = books. Come on, there must be some accountants reading this!) The beef was tender, the noodles were a little bland but welcomed in light of its frequently over salted comparatives. A bit oily, but when is this dish ever not?

Pork, Chicken and Duck Congee - Delicious! Generous portions of meat, though the one downside to this dish was that the pork looked suspiciously like sliced up Healthy Choice ham. A particularly good choice for those who like their congee's consistency to be in between the watery and chunky states, and an especially great pick on a chilly day. For me, this dish conjured up warm memories of the innumerable Saturday mornings my mom would spend diligently making congee for our family and friends. Granted, my mom's kitchen looks nothing like Congee Village (fortunately so given the eclectic decorations in the restaurant's foyer), but still, an enjoyable rekindling of the good ol' days.

Salary and Wages:

Decent service for a Chinese restaurant. If you can speak Cantonese, speak Cantonese.

Property, Plant and Equipment:

Congee Village is situated on the outskirts of Chinatown bordering the Lower East Side. As such, it is much easier to access this restaurant than those in the heart of Chinatown. Tasteful décor for the most part. Quite modern. One flat screen tv was even broadcasting an NFL game, a pleasant deviation from the usual TVB news and Chinese drama series.

Statement of Cash Flows:

The Bottom Line:

A bowl of piping hot congee for less than the price of a grande latte? Sign me up!

L'annam Vietnamese Cuisine

2007-10-30T11:24:00.000-04:00

393 3rd Ave (btwn 27th St & 28th St)
New York, NY 10016
212.686.5168

10 pm on a Saturday night, a post movie grub search ensues. L'annam lights up the corner of East 28th and 3rd with neon signs dancing the fine line between trendy and tacky. A dozen guests peppered throughout the spacious restaurant are visible through large glass windows.

Foodnalysis:

Pho - Menu was a bit ambigious with its "one" vs "two" sizes (refers to the number of people the dish is intended to serve, though the adequacy of the "one" portion size is rather debatable). The "one" was sufficient for a late-night snack but would not have fared well with a pre-movie appetite... but for $4.25, grace is shown. Well flavored, traditional broth, a respectable serving of beef. Tasty rice noodles. Typical garnishes. A decent choice for the price.

Summer Rolls - For $1.50 or 35.3% more than the "one" pho, you can get 35.3% less food in your stomach and 135.3% more of a disappointment in taste. Perhaps I am spoiled by years of dining in California's Little Saigon, but this appetizer was a real disappointment. The summer rolls were stuffed with a disproportionate amount of lettuce, overwhelming the small pieces of shrimp. Peanut sauce on the side was somewhat flavorful -- a necessary addition given the state of the rolls.

Ginger Iced Tea - Stale ginger soaked in lukewarm water. 'Nuff said.

Salary and Wages:

Despite the clear Vietnamese theme, all employees are apparently Chinese. The location fortunately demands the service be a notch above Chinatown, a demand which L'annam meets, however don't expect your waitress to be your next BFF (or even crack a smile for that matter).

Property, Plant and Equipment:

The restaurant occupies a nice space in Murray Hill. Tasteful bamboo decorations, dim lighting and clean floors will provide you with a Manhattanified Little Saigon experience, yet doubts of true swankiness will linger.

Statement of Cash Flows:

The Bottom Line:

Kind on the wallet, below average on the tastebuds.